A bakery the size of one oven, in Bacacay.

We started with pandesal and a single deck oven, selling to neighbours on the way to the Bacacay public market. The trays grew: chiffon cakes for christenings, ensaymada on Sundays, doughnuts for the students who pass at four in the afternoon.

Everything is still baked in Bacacay, Albay — the ube is cooked down here, the pandan is juiced here, and the coffee is roasted from beans grown in the region. Nothing is bought in frozen and finished off.

Cakes are made to order rather than kept in a chiller, which is why we ask for three days on most designs and why the one you collect still smells of the oven.